Bouchon Bakery: Thomas Keller Builds It, They Come

My editor friend, a savvy New York gal, born in the City, raised in Soho when only pioneers lived there and paints, not porcini, were the products of choice, looks perfectly at home there, dressed in New-York black, of course, talking on her cell, natch, and either comfortable with or oblivious to the stark surroundings, the echo of the atrium’s vast space and the bustle around the little podium, where a sweet guy is trying to write down names on the restaurant’s waiting list and round-up the people who have wandered away to ogle the goodies in the bakery’s cases down the corridor.

“I’ve embraced the mall,” declares my editor friend.  She and everyone else it seems: last week two other food editors chose Bouchon Bakery as our meeting place for lunch and dinner dates! 

Either New Yorkers are more easily swayed than we like to believe we are or we’re just crazy about good food.  Given that the T-W Center is the only place in New York to taste anything from Gray Kunz (Café Gray), Michael Lomonaco (Porterhouse) or Thomas Keller (Per Se and Bouchon Bakery), it’s got to be about the food.  Actually, in the case of Bouchon Bakery, it’s mostly about the food – the bright, fresh, open-faced sandwiches and the outrageously creamy quiches (any one of which will remind you why quiche remains a classic) – but it’s all about the TKOs, Thomas Keller’s take on the Oreo!

Dorie Greenspan