Traditionally rillettes, which are served as a spread, are made by slowly cooking cubed pork in its own fat (in this respect, it’s similar to confit), shredding it, and then packing it into crocks and covering it with some of the fat. While Tours, a city in the Loire Valley, is famous for rillettes, the dish is made throughout France and not always with pork: today you can find rillettes of goose, duck, tuna (page 28), and salmon (page 26-27).

Dorie Greenspan