Preserved lemons

Known as citrons confits in France, preserved lemons are a Moroccan and Middle Eastern specialty made by cutting deep slits in lemons and burying them in salt and their own juices for at least three weeks. The result is a pickled or brined lemon, prized for its rind (often the pulp isn’t used), which is soft and has a sharp and, yes, salty flavor. I like to use preserved lemons with chicken and with meaty fish, like tuna and swordfish; they’re also wonderful with bitter greens and even beets. Preserved lemons are available at specialty stores (see Resources, page 514).

Dorie Greenspan