Although Nutella comes from Belgium, that hasn’t dampened the French passion for the chocolate and hazelnut spread. It’s got the consistency of peanut butter and, like peanut butter, it’s most commonly found atop bread — and often found on the menus of famous chefs, who love to play with the childhood favorite. (See the tartine inspired by Pierre Hermé, page 414-15.) Once you’ve got a jar in your cupboard, you’ll find lots of uses for it. For starters, try using it as a frosting for a simple cake (it’s particularly good on the Visitandine, page 436-37) or as the surprise base of a chocolate ganache tart (page 468).

Dorie Greenspan