While I'm not finding what I'm looking for in my files, I am finding some pretty good stuff. Like this series that ends up being a how-to for a tart crust. A nice find.
As those of you who have baked along with me know, I like to use a food processor to make tart and pie dough. Start with cold ingredients, follow the instructions of a good recipe, press the button a few times and you've got great dough. Not overworked - always the hazard with dough - and, if you played your cards right, cold enough to work with immediately.
There are some people who go so far as to freeze the bowl of the processor, the blade and the flour before making dough ... I'm not one of them. I use very cold butter, frozen if I've got it, cold or frozen shortening (If it's that kind of recipe), a cold egg (if the recipe calls for an egg) and, if there's water, ice water, as in water with ice cubes. Cold rules!
Here's the dough as it comes out of the machine. It forms what I call 'clumps and curds'. You never want to process the dough until it comes together in a ball - do that and you're likely to have a tough crust. The dough should be moist and processed just enough so that it holds together when you pinch it.
Instead of fully blending the dough in the processor, I prefer to do what the French call fraisage. You work with a small piece of the dough at a time, setting the heel of your hand on it, push it against the work surface and away from you. When all of the dough is blended - no more clumps and curds, just a smooth dough - gather it into a ball, flatten it into a disk and place it between two pieces of parchment or wax paper.
...Continue reading How-To: Tart Crust + a recipe for a classic quiche
Trompe l'oeil food, food that literally 'fools the eye' because it looks like one thing but is another, has been around for centuries. While I'd guess it was at its most elaborate in the French courts, I'd bet that once people could stop worrying about where they'd be able to hunt or gather their next meal, they began to play tricks with their food.
This 'garden' of radishes is more rustic than courtly, more fun than fussy and very delicious. I'm sorry that the photo isn't better, but it's hard to focus while you're grinning and listening to the happy oohs from around the table. The dish of radish-leaf puree, colorful radishes and cocoa 'dirt' was served with aperitifs at Le Comptoir in Paris, where most people, with or without trompe l'oeil radishes, are usually happy to be around the table.
While there are still summer radishes in the market, it's a dish to make and serve with a smile and to smiles.
As with so many dishes like this, I don't have a 'real' recipe, just an outline of how I'd make it. Well, that's not exactly true ... I've got a recipe for the crumbs. If you'd like, cut back on the sugar. Instead of 1/3 cup brown sugar, go with just 2 tablespoons. The crumbs will be bitter, but hey ... dirt probably is too.
When you're out shopping for - or picking - your radishes, choose ones with unblemished (or in the case of my garden, uneaten) leaves. The leaves are just as important as the radishes here.
Wash and dry the leaves, chop them coarsely and puree them with sea salt, pepper and olive oil. If you'd like, you can make the puree into a pesto: add pine nuts and some grated Parmesan. Taste, fix the salt and pepper levels and chill, if you'd like and have time.
At Le Comptoir, the dish was served family-style and I like that -- think of it as a communal garden. Puree/pesto on the bottom of the bowl, radishes on top, a scattering of pine nuts and a handful of dirt.
...Continue reading Asparagus: The way I'm cooking them these days
AND THE WINNER IS: The contest closed March1 at midnight ET and the random number generator came up with 167, which makes Samantha the winner. Congratulations Samantha and THANK YOU all for your wonderful comments. Reading your thoughts on the word 'bistro' was as lovely as reading French Bistro Seasonal Recipes. Merci encore - xoDorie
Note: All (of the amazing) photographs in this post are by Christian Sarramon. They are from French Bistro, Seasonal Recipes, by Bertrand Auboyneau and Francois Simon (Flammarion, 2011) and used by permission.
...Continue reading French Bistro: A Great Cookbook, A Great Giveaway
AND THE WINNER IS ... Clare of Houston, Texas. The random number generated was 29 -- one of my favorite ages (I liked 31 and 35, too), the date of my parents' anniversary and the number of Clare's comment.
Thank you everyone, all 400+ of you, for commenting, telling us about your favorite use for a blender and even sending recipes.
Happy soup season to you all - xoDorie
It's the season for soup ... and creamy desserts ... and smooth sauces ... and velvety hot chocolate ... and so many more comforting dishes, and the terrific people at KitchenAid agree. Because they, too, want you to enjoy all that is cozy and good, they've given me a KitchenAid 5-Speed Blender to give to you.
It's a great blender and I think you'll love using it as much as I do. It's got a very heavy base and a heavy-duty motor. You can crush ice with it as easily as you can smooth a creamy lemon tart filling.
To win, just leave a comment telling me what you most like to make with a blender. You've got until midnight Eastern time on Monday to leave a comment and then I'll pull out the random-number generator and pick a winner.
To get you in both a soup and blender mood, here's the recipe -- one of my favorites and one of my simplest -- for Beatrix's Red Kuri Soup.
...Continue reading Soup Season's Here: Win A KitchenAid Blender
(Photo by Raymond Hom, food styling by Martha Bernabe, prop styling by DSM, all for the Wall Street Journal)
Come the end of August, my garden looks just the way I like it to look: wild and messy, tangled and overgrown. It’s what I wait for all summer. Sadly, this summer my garden has slid into the just-another-pretty-face category: it’s all looks, no substance. My rosemary withered. My lavender is leggy. My sage has gone to flower – ditto my coriander and marjoram and oregano (the hazards of traveling during crop season). And my tomatoes, my poor tomatoes … As soon as one even starts to color, the chipmunks, voles, moles and deer feast. I haven’t had one tomato yet and I’m not betting that I will. But have I got basil! Basil of all kinds, including one called Magic Michael, which I’m convinced was named for my husband. No matter what I – or my furry friends – do, it thrives and I’m grateful.
...Continue reading Basil: From Soup to Dessert (with a few salads and a main course tossed in, too)
A couple of weeks ago, Michael and I took a road trip to Alsace (Eastern France). It was our first time there and, like so many people before us, we fell in love with the region. The landscape is magnificent at every turn. Mountains and vineyards rising up along slopes that start at the main streets of postcard-perfect towns. Wines with fragrances so luscious you want to use them as perfume. People who are warm and generous and smiling – I can’t wait to introduce you to the "The Jam Fairy," Christine Ferber (I spent a remarkable day with her). And tarte flambee. And more tarte flambee. Tarte flambee every day and sometimes twice a day.
The odd thing was that we mostly (and not incongruously) ate very contemporary meals while we were traveling through medieval villages – more about them later – but no matter what we were eating, or even when, we couldn’t resist the siren call of the tartes flambees. And we found them everywhere. Some were modern and some traditional and we loved them all almost indiscriminately. There, it’s out.
The tarte flambee, also called a flamenkuche, is an Alsatian classic and while I’m sure no right-minded Alsatian would concur with me in calling it a type of pizza, I think it’s the easiest way to explain it. The tarte has a bread-dough base – in some cases (to my mind the very best cases), a paper-thin base – and, at its most traditional, a topping of fromage blanc (also called quark and very much like sour cream) blended with crème fraiche, onions and small pieces (batonnets) of smoked bacon. After that, it’s up for grabs. You can have it gratineed with a sprinkling of Gruyere, covered with salad or topped with anything your imagination can dream up, including chocolate and bananas or strawberries and cream. In other words, like a pizza or a ‘normal’ tart, the crust is the vehicle for whatever you want it to carry.
NOTE: I first had these eggs at Braden Perkin's Hidden Kitchen in Paris (see below and see Braden's comment) and loved them. As Braden comments, he learned them from Arzak in Spain. Thank you, Braden and a big thank you to Juan Mari Arzak.
See that little bundle on top of the asparagus? It's an egg and a favorite of mine. I call it a ruffly egg because of the way the whites are folded and pleated, but it's essentially a soft-boiled egg boiled sans shell and I feel very cheffy when I make it. In fact, as I was searching for this photo, I came across one that I'd taken (with my iPhone under horrible lighting conditions -- sorry) at Uchiko in Austin, Texas. Here it is -- ruffly egg, white asparagus and summer truffles:
What you can't see in either picture is what happens when you break into the egg, but I think you can guess: The yolk breaks and runs and forms a delicious sauce. I didn't get a chance to ask the chef how he made his eggs, but I wouldn't be surprised if he did them just he way I do and if, like me, he uses the freshest organic eggs he can find. I'm in Paris now, so here I buy organic eggs that are marked "Extra," meaning that they can be eaten raw or barely cooked up until the date stamped on the box; after that they're fine for any other kind of preparation.
The eggs are so good plain, but it's fun to give them some pre-poach flavor.
...Continue reading Ruffly Eggs: So Pretty, So Good, So Play-Aroundable
This fabulous picture and the others in this post were taken by David Prince. Brett Kurzweil did the food styling and Robyn Glaser did the prop styling. These are just some of the photographs that accompanied my story on artichokes in the March 12, 2011 edition of The Wall Street Journal.
Artichokes are one of those things that a lot of people love but never cook at home. It's not that they're hard to prepare - they're not; and it's not because they're hard to find or even expensive -- they're not. I think it's mostly because they're scary looking. And because unless you know what you're supposed to do with them, it's impossible to guess. I mean, who'd know that the chubby base of the leaves is not just edible but delicious? Or that once you get all the leaves picked off and you've done battle with the fuzzy (never-to-be-eaten) choke you come to the heart, the most treasured morsel? But these are only questions to the first-timer; learn to clean and cook artichokes and they're bound to win you over ... if you fall for their very particular flavor. As I said in the article, the taste "starts out simply nutty and sweet and then, bite after bite, builds until it seems to fill your mouth, leaving not a speck of space for anything else that isn't sharp, acidic, citrusy or just plain pushy."
Not surprisingly, a flavor like that (something about a special enzyme) can play havoc with wine, but the problems aren't insurmountable. White wine's the thing. Either crisp and bright, like a sauvignon blanc, or round, like a Vouvray with good acidity.
Okay, down to basics.
Types of artichokes: There are big artichokes -- the variety we find most abundantly in America is the Globe -- which are round; and small and baby artichokes -- sometimes known for their color, violet -- which are usually the flowers (artichokes are flowers, thistles, specifically) that grow off the large stem. The babies are pointy-leaved and chokeless, so they can be eaten raw.
...Continue reading Artichokes: Tips + Tales + Recipes
My friend, Oklahoma City chef John Bennett, is famous for saying, “Anything worth doing is worth overdoing,” and everyone who knows him knows he follows his own advice. As evidence of a recent delicious overdoing, I present John’s gougeres in mini-soufflé cups, an idea that John and I noodled with over the phone and that he kept adding to and adding to until it reached the proper proportion, that being “as big as The Ritz”.
...Continue reading John Bennett's Gougeres as Big as The Ritz
...Continue reading How to Make Eggs Sunny Side Up the French Way: Add Truffles+Cream
Laurie Woodward, the founder of Tuesdays with Dorie and the creator of French Fridays with Dorie, a group that will cook its way through Around My French Table, wrote last night, knowing that the new group's more than 700 members would start posting today, and said: "I'm so excited -- it's like Christmas." And, indeed, skipping around the web and seeing everyone's pictures of gougeres and reading the posts about first adventures is like opening hundreds of Christmas presents.
Welcome all! I am beyond thrilled that we'll be cooking and baking together every week for years to come.
For those of you who don't know about French Fridays with Dorie, click over here to read about it, and click over here to join. And don't forget that there's also a Facebook page for the group. (And, while I'm mentioning Facebook - I'm closing my personal page and hope you'll all pack up and move over to my new page.)
Now on to gougeres! Since you'll be seeing hundreds of gougeres in posts today, I thought I'd take you behind the scenes and tell you a little bit about how that beautiful photograph on page 4 of Around My French Table was shot.
That's the fabulously talented Alan Richardson behind the camera, taking a look at the preliminary set-up for the gougeres. We're in my combo kitchen-office-dining room in Connecticut. You can't see food stylist Karen Tack, Alan's partner in cupcakedom, Deb Donahue, who set up a prop shop in the basement, or me -- we're working away in the kitchen part of the room, baking the gougeres. You can see me spooning them out on page 1 of the book.
And here they are (my snapshot), almost ready for their Alan Richardson close-up.
I love my work, but sometimes I really, really love it. And I had a really-really moment when Amanda Hesser of The New York Times called to ask me if I wanted to work with her on her monthly NY Times Magazine column, Recipe Redux. The column is very clever and a real challenge for a collaborator. Here’s how it works: Amanda chooses an interesting recipe from the vast NY Times archives (an archive she knows well, since she curated and annotated it and wrote beautifully about the recipes for her upcoming book – a masterwork – The Essential New York Times Cookbook) and then she asks someone to come up with a fresh, imaginative twist on it.
For this month’s Recipe Redux, Amanda chose Saratoga Potatoes, a recipe from 1904 that contains three ingredients – potatoes, olive oil and salt – and turns out really wonderful potato chips. Amanda’s recipe for the chips is here.
Given the assignment, what would you have done? I’d love to know.
Here’s the recipe I came up with and the twists and turns I took along the way:
...Continue reading Crackery Potato Bugnes: Grab a Drink
I’ve been swamped with get-ready-for-book tour stuff – all very good stuff, but a lot for a one-woman-band, which would be me. But just because I can’t seem to find my desk (or even my keys for that matter) doesn’t mean that I haven’t taken breaks to cook and bake and have friends in. Not that making these nibblers gives you much of a break – they’re just about instant.
- It’s startingly easy, almost embarrassingly easy, but chic and, of course, delicious;
- It requires only 3 ingredients – puff pastry, mustard and egg for the glaze – and you can keep them all on hand; in fact, you might already have them;
- It’s easily play-aroundable, so that you can make it your own;
- You can make the batons ahead and stick them in the freezer, so they’re ready to bake ‘on demand’ in small or large quantities; and
- It’s so very much in keeping with today’s style of French home cooking: it’s a dish that’s elegant but easy, unfussy but good looking, and one that’s fun to eat: it’s finger food of the kind that invites après-eating finger licking. And any time you can lick your fingers in polite company is a good time.
...Continue reading French Made Easy: Mustard Batons from Around My French Table
Last week I had the kind of experience I adore: I got to spend a morning in the kitchen of Le Comptoir with my Paris neighbor, Yves Camdeborde, the restaurant’s rightly celebrated chef, making Tuna-Mozzarella Pizzas, a recipe he gave me for my new book, Around My French Table. And while we were cutting and arranging the pizzas (it’s more arts and crafts project than recipe), the amazingly talented David Turecamo was there to record the action. Can you see him just behind Yves?
You’ll be hearing more about the shoot soon – and seeing the video and getting the recipe – but in the meantime I’ve been thinking about the puff pastry rounds we used for the pizza and how incredibly easy they are to make, and how many different things you can do with them, especially now when the markets are full of great fruits and vegetables.
Pity the poor roasted pepper. Slapped onto grinders and subs at fast-food joints. Sloshed into a bin at salad bars. Chopped up any old way and tossed over pizza. Slivered and crammed into jars to collect dust on supermarket shelves. It’s such a shame that the tasty peppers rarely show up in the center of the plate, on their own to glisten, to shine and to be savored for their sweetness.
I love that in the simplest French bistros (as well as in Italian trattorias and Greek tabernas) thoughtfully roasted and peeled bell peppers, brushed with or marinated in olive oil, are served solo as the main event in the starter category. And with pepper season here – to say nothing of grilling season – it seems to me that now’s a good time to start giving peppers their moment.
I like roasting bell peppers on an oiled grill. (My preference is for any peppers but green, but perhaps you don’t feel that way.) I cover the grill, but you don’t have to, and turn the peppers as they char on each side. Of course you can roast bell peppers without a grill. Peppers are easily roasted in the oven (put them on a baking sheet lined with parchment, foil or a silicone mat and roast them in a 425-degrees-F oven, turning them as each side chars, for 45 to 60 minutes) and more messily over the gas burner of your range (place them on the burner rack). Here’s a quick how-to:
...Continue reading Roasted Peppers, Delicious Enough to Serve on Their Own
This picture by Nuno Correia comes from David Leite's terrific book, The New Portuguese Table. The dish is a sausage and potato tortilla, think frittata, and, as David explains, it can be served warm as a main course, at room temperature as a starter or cut into slices and eaten as an hors d'oeuvre. Me? I'm hoping to eat it as all of these things as I head to the tortilla's homeland.
I'll be out-of-range for the next 10 days or so (and yes, the prospect is making me twitchy even as I'm hoping that the reality will make me serene) because I'm setting sail on Gohagan&Company's European Coastal Civilizations cruise to Portugal, Spain, Belle-Ile-en-Mer, Guernsey and Honfleur. I've signed on as the culinary lecturer on this trip (Michael signed on as 'spouse') and I'm flying to Lisbon with three slide shows (okay, they're on PowerPoint) that I can't wait to share with my fellow adventurers.
...Continue reading Sausage+Egg Tortilla, Adios, Au'revoir and Cheerio
I'm playing catch-up since I'm behind on everything, but with the holidays coming and the weather getting chilly in these parts, I wanted to make sure I point you to a few recipes I did for Parade Magazine recently. For starters (finishers, really), there's this easy-peasy almost-a-cheater's No-Bake White Chocolate Pie. I make it in a ready-made crust -- graham cracker or, as in this picture, chocolate -- and slice fresh bananas into it before spooning on the topping, a mix of white chocolate and cream, cream and cream: cream cheese, sour cream and heavy cream. As many of you know, I rarely use white chocolate in my recipes, but I think it's perfect here -- it adds a little more vanilla flavor to the blend and, more important, it contributes a satininess (a word?) to the texture. If you make your own chocolate or cracker crust (there's a chocolate crust recipes on page 448 and a bunch of cracker-crust recipes on page 237 of Baking From My Home to Yours), you can press it into a pretty dish and no one will ever have to know how quickly you made it.
While the pie is no-bake, there is just one thing to be careful about: the white chocolate. I made it with several kinds of chocolate and found that it really worked best with imported chocolate. (I used Valrhona Ivoire.) Also, no matter what white chocolate you use in no matter what recipe, always make sure to melt the chocolate gently and slowly. If you melt it over simmering water, don't leave it alone for a second; and if you melt it in a microwave, do it in short spurts on low power and stir frequently. White chocolate is such a fuss-budget: it seizes and burns very quickly.
...Continue reading On Parade: Hearty Soups and a Soft and Creamy Pie
When I was a kid, my mom would sometimes say, "Do as I say, not as I do." And even as a kid, the line, which came to feel like an adage, didn't seem right to me. In fact, I thought it branded my wonderful mother as a hypocrite and, in a mental note to self, I instructed myself to never say that. That I ended up saying it last night, and that I directed the line to myself, is proof that one should never say never.
Sometime around 7:30 last night, The Kid and I decided that it would be fun to make scallion pancakes, something neither of us had ever done. That it was late and that one of us (it turned out to be me) would have to go out to buy sesame oil, scallions and just about everything else that was needed for the noodle salad we thought should go with it, didn't daunt us.
...Continue reading Scallion Pancakes and The Impatient Cook
Saturday night friends came to dinner and they came bearing gifts of food, the nicest gifts possible. But here was the odd thing -- they brought their homemade treats packed in canning jars, although neither gift was truly "canned". And, just to make it all a little odder, on the menu for a first course I had gravlaxed and marinated salmon and potatoes in oil, both made in canning jars and both served from them. Was it a coincidence? Culinary telepathy? The tip of a trend?
You may have heard me say this before, but I once had an editor who told me that when you see something once, it's nothing; when you see something twice, it's interesting; and when you see the same thing three times, it's a trend. Could 'canned food' be the next big thing?
...Continue reading A Confluence of Canned Food: Could It Be a Trend?
Today was a writing day and the writing to be done was recipes and their headnotes, cookbookery jargon for the narrative describing a dish before you get to the ingredients and directions. First up was coddled eggs and, even though I finished writing about them by mid-morning, the thought of them stayed in my head for the rest of the day, until finally I realized that I'd never be able to get my work done if I didn't rustle up an egg or two -- pronto. But really, coddled eggs can only be made one way -- pronto.
If you've never coddled an egg, I urge you to go into the kitchen, make one and check it off your life list.
...Continue reading Coddled Eggs and the Power of Suggestion
Those of you who get HealthyStyle Magazine in your Sunday newspaper -- it's PARADE's sister magazine -- may have seen that The Last Bite has three recipes made from inexpensive ingredients, most of which we keep as staples in the pantry or fridge. The recipes are mine and I loved creating them for the magazine because they're the kind of food I make a lot at home: tasty, simple, colorful, quick to prepare and fun to eat.
The recipes are Tuna and White Bean "Waldorf" Salad (pictured above in a photo for Parade by Deborah Cry, styled by Brett Kurzweil), Lemony Sardine Spread -- as you may already know, I love sardines -- and Penne with Tomato and Tuna.
...Continue reading On Parade: Three Recipes for Good Food from the Pantry
When you bake as much as I do, which is just about daily, you get used to your husband only nibbling at a cookie or two, or cutting the thinnest possible slice of cake and not going back for seconds, and after a while (say 20 years or so) you don't take it personally. Happily, there are still things I make that he finds irresistible, among them the French Pear Tart (it's the recipe I chose for Tuesdays with Dorie), rugelach, almost like his mother made, and quiche, eggy, cheesy, creamy, rich quiche.
Before the book, Real Men Don't Eat Quiche, and before the "Food Police" (a group Julia Child always referred to as "grumpy") decided quiche somehow wasn't p.c., the French custard tart was beloved on our shores. Of course, it's never stopped being loved in France, from whence it sprung.
...Continue reading Quiche: Still a Favorite
Remember how excited I was when my beet, tomato and yogurt salad turned out to have just 70 calories? Well, I've got another 70-calorie wonder, this eggplant caviar that I created for Parade Magazine.
...Continue reading Eggplant Dip on Parade
I thought I was so smart getting up at 5 am and turning the car around in the driveway so that I wouldn't have to back out in the snow (I'm not crazy about reverse in any weather -- it's just another quirk I'll work on one day when I've got more time). What I failed to remember was that the snowplow would come along and sock me into the driveway no matter which way my car was pointing. Oh well, it's not so bad being snowbound, since the electricity -- and therefore the heat -- is still working and I've got a lots of stuff in the fridge and the cupboards so that I can play in the kitchen. And, I've got soup, always a good thing.
...Continue reading Snow Again, Soup Again
These days, no matter where I am -- and in the past week, I've been in Paris, New York City and Westbrook, CT -- there's been snow, real snow, the kind that sticks and sends little kids outdoors to make snowballs and the rest of us to the kitchen to make soup.
...Continue reading Snowy Days and Hot Soup
For more years than I want to think about, my working lunch (i.e., the lunch I have when I'm working) has been a diced apple, sunflower seeds, raisins and yogurt. On special days, I might go a little crazy and top the whole thing off with a few spoonfuls of cereal. And when I want to bake and have only the basics at hand, I whip up a Yogurt Loaf Cake, a simple French cake that all my Parisian friends, even those who can barely find their kitchens, either make or remember having had made for them as they were growing up. (Baked in a round pan and topped with whipped cream, it was the birthday cake of choice for lots of my friends. Those of you with Baking From My Home to Yours can find instructions for the round cake and a rosemary-scented "Riviera" variation that uses thick Greek-style yogurt and olive oil on page 225.)
...Continue reading Yogurt: Three Recipes
The October issue of Bon Appetit magazine just hit the stands -- as well as the web -- and, in addition to announcing the winners of this year's awards to the stars in the food world, and offering a recipe for Flamiche from the terrific Molly 'Orangette' Wizenberg , it features the premier of my three-part series The Baker.
...Continue reading The Baker: Bacon-Cheddar Quick Bread with Dried Pears
While the tomatoes in my garden are still too green for anything, even green tomato pie, the corn is already sweet, the zucchini already plentiful and the onions ready for their close-ups at my local farmers market in Lyme.
...Continue reading Summer House Cooking: Putting the season's vegetables to good use
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day.Â Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
I'd just bought a kilo (about 2 1/4 pounds) of sardines and I'd hoped that madame, the fishmonger, would filet them for me.Â And she would have -- if I'd only wait 30 minutes, please.Â Because it was a warm, sunny, perfect Paris day, and because I'd no more shopping to do to fill in the time, I said I'd filet them myself.Â Madame gave me a quizzical look -- read doubtful -- and, because she was too polite to say, "I bet you've never done this before and don't know what you're in for," she said, "You know, you've got a lot of sardines and it will take you a while to filet them."
"Well," I said, "I really do have to get back home, so I'll take them as is.Â But," I asked, "would you just show me how to do it?"
...Continue reading Give A Man A Fish ...
I know just how hard it can be to change even one dish on any family's traditional Thanksgiving menu - it took me years to get rid of our dread stringbean-swiss cheese-cornflake-topped casserole even though no one really wanted to eat it anymore. Traditions can be like that. So, knowing that, I wouldn't dare suggest that you give up whatever soup you normally make for the holiday and turn to this one, but if you're undecided in the soup department, here's a winner.
...Continue reading For Thanksgiving: Daniel Boulud's Chestnut Soup
Just when it looked like we were heading into the lamb part of March (is the expression March comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb universal? or at least known in the northern hemisphere, where March is a winter/spring month?), along comes real snow and with it pokey traffic. By the time we got up to Connecticut the other night, it was past serving time at all our favorite places and we were left to scavenge dinner, using whatever was in the pantry and the bag of leftovers I'd scooped up in New York and tossed into the car. It was a little like Iron Chef ... but not.
...Continue reading Slow-Roasted Tomatoes: A Pasta Picker-Upper
Daniel Patterson of Coi Restaurant in San Francisco was the only American chef to be invited to this year's Omnivore Food Festival in Le Havre, France. He walked onto the big stage, faced the audience and the camera crew from Cuisine TV (France's Food Network), smiled shyly, greeted everyone in soft school-boy French and then proceeded to keep the mostly French audience of food pros, press and Michelin-starred chefs hushed and wide-eyed.
...Continue reading Eccentric Eggs from Daniel Patterson