Madeleines: Always Something New to Learn

 Here’s the scoop:

  • Once the batter is made, press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface and refrigerate it for 1 hour.
  • Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and refrigerate the filled pan for 1 hour.
  • Put a baking sheet in the oven and preheat the oven and the baking sheet.  (I bet you could use a baking stone.)
  • Bake the madeleines on the very hot baking sheet.

I usually get a big bump on my mads, but the ones I chilled and chilled and baked on a hot sheet were the bumpiest yet.  (I used a non-stick metal pan that I buttered.)

madeleines in pan.jpg

If you try this technique, let me know.  If you need a recipe so you can experiment, here’s mine.  (It doesn’t include the chilling and preheating steps, so you’ll have to refer to them to experiment.)

TRADITIONAL MADELEINES

Adapted from Baking From My Home to Yours

Makes 12 large or 36 mini cookies

 

 

2/3 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon double-acting baking powder

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup sugar

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

3/4 stick (6 tablespoons; 3 ounces) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt and keep close at hand.  

Working in a mixer bowl, rub the sugar and lemon zest together with your fingertips until the sugar is moist and fragrant.  Fit the mixer with the whisk attachment, add the eggs to the bowl and beat the eggs and sugar together on medium-high speed until they are pale, thick and light, 2 to 3 minutes; beat in the vanilla.  Grab a large rubber spatula and very gently fold in the dry ingredients followed by the melted butter.  Press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface of the batter and chill the batter for at least 3 hours or, if you have the time, overnight.  (For real convenience, you can spoon the batter into the madeleine molds, cover, chill, then bake the cookies directly from the fridge.  See below for instructions on prepping the pans.)

Getting ready to bake:  Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.  Butter 12 full-size shell-shaped madeleine molds (or up to 36 mini madeleine molds), dust the insides with flour and tap out the excess.  If you have a nonstick madeleine mold, give it a light coating of vegetable cooking spray. 

Spoon the batter into the molds, filling each one almost to the top.  Don’t worry about spreading the batter even, the oven’s heat will take care of that.  Bake the large madeleines for 11 to 13 minutes and the minis for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the madeleines are golden and the tops spring back when touched.  Remove the pan from the oven and release the madeleines from the molds by rapping the edge of the pan against the counter.  Gently pry any recalcitrant madeleines from the pan using your fingers or a butter knife.  Transfer the cookies to a rack to cool to just-warm or to room temperature.

If you are making minis and have more batter, bake the next batch, making certain that with each new batch the pans are cool and properly buttered and floured or sprayed.

Serving:  The cookies are ready to serve when they are only slightly warm or when they reach room temperature.  Dust the tops with confectioners’ sugar and serve the sweets with tea or espresso.

Storing: The batter can be covered with a piece of plastic film pressed against the surface and kept in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, but the madeleines should be eaten soon after they are made.  You can keep them overnight in a sealed container, but they really are better on day 1.  If they must be kept, wrap them airtight and freeze them, they’ll keep for up to 2 months.

 

Dorie Greenspan

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